Famous traditional sarees are from Gujrat. It’s a type of tie and dye. Patterns are very intricate. As a rule a dark ground of red, choclate, brown or black. The work is in white, red, yellow or green. Where more than two colors are used, the design is known as ‘phulwari’ and where animal motifs predominate it is known as ‘shikaris’. Elephants, birds flowers and dancing dolls are tie and dyed to form the traditional designs. In more expensive ‘Gharcholas’ gold charkhanas or square are woven into the original fabric and tie-dyed pattern produced within these squares. There are some design in Gujrat where bandhani work is restricted to border of saree and to large circle within the body which are intricately patterned, usually in the form of a circle of figures in a traditional dance pose. Although the splended silk sarees and odhnis decorated peacocks, flowers, dancers ar used as festival dress the most highly preceed type of bandhani in gujrat is most frequently made of not silk but of cotton. This is the Gharchola. The traditional wedding odhni of gujrati hindu brides now also adopted by jain ladies even worn as a saree by guest at wedding. Fine cotton or malmal is divided into compartenents by woven stripes of gold brocades. The gold checked fabric being made in purbandar in saurashtra. Although it was formally imported from varanasi. The main gharchola designs are called bar bagh(12 section) or bahavan bav(52 section) depending upon the no. of motifs or squares. In order to save cost, the design may be tie and dyed on to red cotton cloth without the gold brocade. But if the buyers can afford it zari check sarees are better and are designed more. Another compromise can be achieved by sewing gold ribbon in strips on the tie dye saree. Yet invitation gharchola on georgette often furthered sunblished by sequence are now popular in the bazars of jam nagar. The gharchola is given to a girl at the time of their marriage. She usualy drapes it over her head and is entirely covered by underneath. Traditional white silk wedding sarees with a red border. The gharchola fabrics is alwayz in the auspicious red color associated with weddings and varieties happiness with tie and dyed design in white and yellow dots. With green areas highlighted by localised dyed painting. It is also known the term derived from kusum of red dye. The motifs are usually a combination of plain instruments and favourably regarded as such as elephants and peacocks.
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