Kala battu or zari embroidery is very famous embroidery and Sumrat, Banaras, West Bengal are important centre. Firstly metal is melted into bars (pasa) which is then drawn into a length by gently beating it after treatement. The material is next passed through perforated steel plates to turn it into long wire form after which comes tarkash. Last stage is called badla. When the wire is finally flatened and then wound on silk or cotton thread, which when twisted becomes kasab.
Zari embroidery is used in weaving and embroidery types:
a. Zardoza- ground material is silk, velvet, satin. In this salma sitara, sea pearl etc are used. Zardozi is a persian word-gold sewing.
b. Kamdani-a lighter needle work done on lighter material.
c. Mina- pleasing flower pattern are kataoki bel.
d. Mukaish- done with the use of silver wire badalau. It serves as a needle for piercing the material.
e. Tilla or Moroni work done to the basic cloth. Also gota kinari work. Zari embroidery is practised all over India-kashmir, delhi, agra and lucknow.